#hollingsheadout

Zhangjiajie

Ok, we had a plan to maximise what we could see in the park in two days. Richard (hotel manager) had draw up a plan with us the night before. As it was a fine day, with mist rolling in we decided to follow the abc route as it included a 7.5 km walk down the valley.

We were based at the Wulingyuan and had to go to the local bus station, a 10 minute walk. We caught a bus to the other entry, Luoguta ticket station, a 30 min drive, 10 yuan each. When we got to the park entrance we purchased our 4 day pass, 245 yuan each, which linked to our finger print. We walked into the park and queued for our first bus to the cable car station that took us to the plateau.

Remember nothing is in English and when you show the driver the map, they grunt and wave you onto the bus. So first stop is the cable car station, looks like a house, no one got off, so we stayed on and went to the next stop, unending stairway to a temple on top of a mountain, after starting we realised we were in the wrong place, so back we went down to the last stop.

We paid for return cable car tickets up and down to Huang Shizhai plateau.At the top we started our 2 hour walk around the outer edge of the plateau. Walking clockwise and took every left turn when given a choice. As there was low cloud/mist the views were limited but spectacular all the same.

Once down from the top we caught a bus back to the entrance to go on the valley walk, Jin Bian Xi. This was an amazing peaceful 7.5 km walk along a valley floor with 200 – 300 m cliffs either side soaring into the mist. The walk was one of the highlights, pictures do not capture the size of the valley at all.

Half way we stopped at a busy local restaurant, serving locals, the food was hot and fresh. We both had pork dumpling soup and a bowl of boiled and fried potatoes with chilli. It certainly hit the spot after walking for so long and having had minimal breakfast.

We then continued the walk to the end of the valley walking next to a stream. The walk is well setup and decking and steps are at the appropriate places, even though we walked for about 3 hours it was not stressful.

We then caught a bus to the 10 mile loop, Shi Li Hua Lang,  thinking that the tram would take us to the top and back again. How wrong could we be, the tram took us a couple of km up the hill then we had to get off, the ticket was not return. If we wanted to go further to the top of the mountain it was a 2.5 hour walk up steps, we were a little weary after walking most of the day so we passed on this opportunity. The mist was rolling in and the view would be limited. We knew we would be visiting the top tomorrow so we walked back down the narrow track next to the tram with hundreds of Chinese tourists. Caught the bus back to the Wulingyuan entrance and walked back to the hotel.

We decided to try a Chinese hot pot style restaurant for dinner. There was a busy one just around the corner from the hotel. So in we went, absolutely no English, we got a table and Sue went off to question the locals, found a lady who understood a little English, and she said her dinner was excellent and helped Sue order a similar dinner, beer and rice.

Chinese tea is interesting, it is served in a cast iron teapot so it is very hot, they also give you a tin bowl on your table as well and two small bowls each. Confused we were, but we had learnt the hard way the night before, much to the amusement of the locals. Yes, you can drink the tea, but you also use it to wash your bowls and chop sticks and the waste goes into the tin bowl. We got tips from the locals.

Dinner arrived in a wok and was put on the burner in the centre of the table. We tossed in raw chinese cabbage and away it boiled. This dinner was a local speciality, so we tucked in, the meat was on bones, everything is, and there was tough skin and fatty bits, and things we were not sure of. But we ate as much as we could as it had been a long day. Must admit the beer helped wash it down!

After talking to Richard back at the hotel we realised we’d eaten pigs neck hot pot, basically it is the pigs neck, chopped up, cooked stew style and served up. That’s one thing off our bucket list!

So statistics for the day:
Walked 16.6 km
Flights climbed 71

Day 2

Porridge with hot water and black coffee for breakfast again, as the hotel doesn’t do breakfast. Enough to get us up and out. Lucky Sue bought the sachets from home and this saved us time searching fo a restaurant.

So today we do the numbers route, the weather is not so good, low cloud mist and drizzle rain. But off we go anyway! We entered the park at the Wulingyuan entrance and caught the bus to the elevator to take us up to the plateau. Paid for one way ticket and we were keen to secure a window spot. It was all a bit push and shove Chinese style but luckily we were at the front of the queue and once in the elevator all we could see was concrete. The glass was frosted with rain so slapped the camera on the window and started the recording. There seemed to be a long wait as we surged upward with concrete view for a third of the way, then suddenly we were up 200m-300m with an amazing view of the mountains.

It was quite wet once we got out, umbrellas open and not much space, everyone wanting that perfect shot but sadly the mist smothered most of the mountains. There were moments it cleared a little then white blanketing everything.

At the top we catch bus to Yuan Jia Jie. The limestone crests peaking out of the mist, still spectacular. This took a couple of hours to navigate, unlike yesterday we had more tourists to navigate around.

We then caught the bus to Yang Jie Jie. this was fairly straight forward, we were going to walk to Win Long Village and Tien Bo Mansion, a lookout point. There is also a cable car here but were not advised to use this one as it did not take us where we wanted to go.

So down the steps we went, we are making good use of our walking sticks! We walked down for about half an hour to reach the village. Not much here, but take the right hand path, marked “toilets”, otherwise it is a 2.5 – 3.0 hour walk down steps to the bottom of the valley, same place cable car goes too.

Took the path down some very narrow and interesting paths. When we finally reached the viewing point we had to scale up and down metal rung ladders, the rain had stopped, it was not so scary but was a little dangerous and difficult to manoeuvre through.

The views were excellent and worth the climb. Still had the mist to contend with but otherwise you certainly got a feel for the massive size of the place. Locals were echoing Cooee sounds and enjoying the moment.

The walk back up the mountain wasn’t so bad on our legs now as we started to adjust to all the stair climbing.

Caught the bus back to the main mountain, Yuan Zi Shan, as usual got off at the wrong place, wait for next bus, then finally get there.

As had been the case for the last few days, the mist obscured the best views, so as we were getting cold, dropped into a Macdonald’s for a coffee (well they call it that) and some hot chips, our first western snack.

Then caught bus to cable car to go down the mountain, this trip should have been one of the highlights but was not the best due to mist, but we enjoyed what we saw.

Back on the bus after queuing for a while with Chinese tourists to Wulingyuan entrance. Then we walked to hotel.

Our final night we wanted a decent dinner so we got Richard to help us order dinner from the menu. We ate beef, pork and vegetable dishes ,with rice and beer. Best dinner we had had on the mountains.

So statistics for the day:
Walked 11.1km
Flights climbed 118

Day 3

Our last day, we calculated if we left early we could walk the Glass Bridge. We packed up the night before and left at 7.30 to walk down to local bus station to catch bus to Glass Bridge, 6 yuan each.

About 45 minutes to get there, another place with no English. Advice for others, you can’t take cameras or walking sticks or high heels onto the bridge. We had taken walking sticks which I had to check in, almost missed our twin because of this. Mobile phones with cameras are fine.

Where to buy tickets, no idea, so go through security check, twice as we had to check walking sticks in. Go inside building and buy tickets, always have your passport on you as sometimes it is required and sometimes not.

Then join queue, your tickets are for time slots, ours was 7.30 – 10.00, must be on Bridge before slot expires or buy new tickets. Had to put on shoe protectors to go out on Bridge.

The view from Bridge is spectacular, especially in the middle, when you stand on glass and and look straight down 300m to the valley floor. Spent about 30 minutes on Bridge, random people wanted pictures with us, only blonde/white hair, blue eyed people there. Made a few friends.

After the Bridge, we walked down to the valley floor, about a 2.5 hr walk, slippery wooden steps and path covered with slime/mud in some places, Sue eventually slipped over and twisted her knee again!

At the end of walk we hopped onto a boat which took us across the lake to exit, very relaxing. The locals got stressed and put on life jackets, quite amusing to watch.

Panic at the exit started when we realised we were a long way from where we had checked our walking sticks in and we had to catch bus back up mountain. Instead of going straight back to Walingyuan (green bus). So where is the bus, walk out exit and walk down hill to parking lot, spot the cattle grid for lining up and catch that bus.

So now we’re back at top parking lot, get walking sticks back, see out bus in middle of parking lot, hop on and wait 20 minutes to leave. Then you end up back at the exit down the hill for another 15 minutes. Then the 45 minute drive back to the hotel. Getting a little anxious now.

Got there @ 1.45pm, got changed quickly and dragged bags back to train station. Got on bus for Zhangjaijie and it leaves almost straight away. 75 minute bus trip, still not stressed as we are catching 3.52 train back to Changsha. Bus pulls into bus station at 3.30, blood pressure still good but cutting it fine. Go as quick as we can around corner to Train station asking people for help with directions as we go, ticket check, baggage scan, go to waiting area, sit down, it’s 3.40 pm, three minutes later we line up to get on train. Lucky we didn’t miss train!

This time we are on a soft sleeper, 4 berth, which we share with a young guy and an old Chinese lady who said little. We had to put up with our non smoking carriage having smoke woft in and out as smokers break the rules. It was a good trip to otherwise to Changsha.

Arrive at Changsha at 9.45 pm, get off train and head to Mellow Orange hotel across road. Using maps.com for directions. This is a business hotel, so rooms are supplied with condoms, did not have time to find out about this local custom. The room was good price and ok for one night.

So statistics for the day:
Walked 12.8km
Flights climbed 38

Day 4

Fair night sleep on concrete hard bed, out of the hotel at 7.00 after normal porridge breakfast, at least if we keep eating it the bags get lighter!

Back across road to train station to catch MRT to Changsha South railway station 3 yuan each, get there no problem, easy seven stops ,MTR ticket machines like everywhere have English menu option. It’s a bit of a maze to get around but we get there.

Go up to high speed train station, makes Perth Airport look really small. Tickets with passport check, then baggage check, had Sue’s dry hair shampoo taken off us, bad luck I opened up the wrong toiletries bag. Go up to the waiting area. Well marked but our train number did not appear on the screen. Sitting waiting and time ticking. So when gates opened to board train, we asked if it was our train and it was.

Boarded bullet train, nice first class seats again. Train left at 9.00am, got to Beijing West railway station @2.42pm, cruised at about 306kmh most of the way.

Off the train down to MTR caught subway to nearest station to hotel, Chongwenmen, then walked 15 minutes to hotel. I messed this trip up as I selected wrong station on way, so had to go out and do security checks again get on train for one more stop, but otherwise ok.

The New World Beijing Hotel is a five star hotel between Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven. After a quick wash and clean up it was off to the Residence club and food and drinks, slept well!

So statistics for the day:
Walked 5km
Flights climbed 3

Beijing

Day1

Off to Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. As the communist party were having a big meeting the next week we had several security stops and long queues, mainly checking locals, they scan their security passes.

We gave up actually going onto the square and seeing *Chairman Mao’s” tomb as security was intense, so next visit to China. Finally walked the long walk into the Forbidden City, found ticket office on right hand side, no queues as locals get all their tickets online. We also purchased the audio guide, it worked occasionally but Sue’s was faulty so changed it. 80 yuan we paid and for the little information it gave in hindsight, I would not use it again, use a guidebook.

Spent about 4 hours exploring the City, the clock room is well worth a visit, and you certainly get a feel for the size of the place as you walk around. Sue liked the pottery section but was very dark.

Should have walked up the hill at the park at the rear of the City, but legs getting weary, so caught bus around block to near Tiananmen Square and walked back to hotel. As we were walking the Wall next we decided to stay in and make good use of the lounge facilities again. We sleep really well!

So statistics for the day:
Walked 12.6km
Flights climbed 14

Day 2

We met Joe our guide @ 7.00am for our Great Wall hike. Wewere up early and picked up our packed up breakfast on way out. On the way we collected three very pleasant New Yorkers at another hotel and off we went.

After 2.5 hours on good roads we passed many well developed areas with parks and gardens. Surprisingly clean and well kept roads. We stopped at a small village in a valley and got ready to walk up to the wall. The walk took us through the forrest and was a pleasant climb along paths for about 45 minutes until we reached the starting point of our walk along the wall at Jiankou.

We then walked along the wall up and down some steep broken sections for about 7.5 km, 4 hours until we got to the tourist section and exited by toboggan run at Mutianyu.

Before we got to the tourist section of the wall we passed the Ox horn section, a very steep and difficult section a 20-30 min climb up and down, the two young ones in our group did this, but Sue and I passed as we had too many more weeks on the road, and could not afford to hurt ourselves, we took a path and discussed modern China with Joe until the others rejoined us. The two young ones held us up for the rest of the way because they were too tired and stiff.

The tourist section was busy compared to our early section. Bit it was still enjoyable.

We came down via the toboggan run, unfortunately spoilt by 4 locals in front who kept stopping to take selfies, but it was a bit of fun.

After leaving the wall for hotel we drove 30 minutes to a local restaurant and had a great hot meal with beer. Very nice, hot and a great selection. Then 2.5 hr back to the hotel. An excellent day out with nice company and a great guide, Joe from great wall hikes and beautiful weather. We got back about 6.30 pm, so made use of the lounge again. We slept well.

So statistics for the day:
Walked 10.1km
Flights climbed 153

Day 3

Last full day in Beijing, the first stop is the Temple of Heaven, a 15 minute walk from the hotel, buy tickets to see everything, 35yuan each, as we had come in the north entrance, we walked in to the first Temple and then did a anti clockwise walk around the temples and the gardens. It was nice to see people playing shuttlecock and ball room dancing, a very cool park. The gardens are excellent and it was a nice quiet place to relax with many birds and lovely shady trees, compared with the hustle and bustle of Beijing outside the walls, spent a couple of hours walking about and exploring, well worth the visit. Next time we would come early in the morning to see people doing ti chi.

We left via the eastern gate as Sue wanted to check out the pearl market close by. We spent way to long there as she explored three floors of pearls, sorry but they sort of all looked the same to me.

We then walked back to the hotel to refresh, our plan was to try a local peking duck restaurant, Liquin Roast Duck. We got there soon after 6pm but as we did not have a booking we stayed in the alley until a table was ready. We got a table and the waitress helped us order, duck, pancakes, cucumber slices, spring onion, cold duck wings, mushrooms and Bok Choi and beer. The duck was very nice , although we seemed to get two plates of it so we had plenty. At least we tried a local Peking Duck restaurant and survived.

We then walked to the MTR and caught a couple of subway trains to get to the Hutong’ shopping area, we had a nice evening looking at all the craft shops, we then went down some alley ways on the way back to a MTR station to check out the door designs, definitely worth checking out next trip.

We then went back to the hotel pack up for the start of the Trans Mongolian train trip to Ulaanbaatar.

So statistics for the day:
Walked 16.8 km
Flights climbed 15

Day 4

Up bright and early to have a last swim in the 25m pool before breakfast. We were already to leave the hotel by 9.30am for our 11.22am K3 train to Mongolia. The hotel organised a taxi to Beijing Train station as walking there was out of the question as it was raining.

Th taxi driver dropped us at the ticket office instead of the actual station, so we did one security check to many, no real problem. Just more baggage checks.

Once at the station next door, we went to waiting room 1 to wait to be called to go on our next part of the adventure.

Half an hour before the train left we boarded and went into our cabin in Deluxe class.

The next stage of our adventure now starts, we are on K3, the Trans Mongolian, in Deluxe Class. Please don’t get your expectations to high, there are only 8 cabins per carriage, plus the carriage guards room and shared toilet. Our suite (sarcasm) has two bunk beds, upper and lower, a table and a seat on the other side, next to the seat is the bathroom door, the bathroom is shared between two cabins, cold water only, it has a sink and mirror, good for a face wash or shave. As soon as we are underway the hot water tank is lit and we have hot water (boiling) to put in our cabin thermos. The heating system for the carriage is also lit but as it is still warm it is very subtle, just taking the edge of the cool carriage.

We have lunch and dinner vouchers, so we soon went off to lunch, meatballs and rice, ok. Dinner was the same but bigger meatballs. Look it’s hot and filling, and it’s included in the ticket. If the train is busy don’t miss your time slot or you will miss out.

We met our neighbour, Mo Mo, she is off to met her German husband in Paris, she is taking just about the same trip as us, but not stopping until Moscow, Mo Mo, a video journalist with cctv for 6 years is great company and we spend the time filling in out Chinese exit forms and Mongolian entry forms.

Crossing the border is a very slow affair, Chinese customs come on board and take your exit papers and your passports. You have to be standing in front of them when they check you against passport.

We then went off to the factory to have the wheels changed as China and Mongolia have different gauges.

Then back to the station for Chinese customs to return our passports. Only took three hours.

So across the border we go stop at the Mongolian customs, BTW don’t fill in the bit about how much money you have. Otherwise same process, check you standing in front of them and take your entry forms, the customs man then comes around and signed you off. 90 minutes later your passports come back. Finally at 1.30pm we get under way and I go to sleep.

So statistics for the day:
Walked 1.5 km
Flights climbed 1